Installing Butcher Block Countertop
DETAILED ARTICLE: https://www.aconcordcarpenter.com/how...

Create a Template
Butcher block is created from straight pieces of wood glued together into thick slabs. This creates a particularly strong work surface that's ideal for cutting blocks and boards.

One simple way to make a template is to use luan plywood strips.
Butcher block for countertops usually comes in a 25-inch depth. This covers a standard 24-inch-deep cabinet with room for an overhang and enough excess width to fill gaps along the wall. 
Lay out the strips to form the perimeter of the butcher block countertop. Be sure to keep the strips tight to the sides of the counter and back wall and remember to include your overhang. In my situation I was matching an existing granite overhang.

Connect the strips with hot glue. Once the glue is dry, I place a few short screws into the strips for reinforcement. I use a pencil to mark the strips and also a marker to mark the front, back and sides of the template so I don’t get confused back at the saw.

Pro Tip:
If a back wall has a curve or bow I will scribe and cut the back template board first to fit and conform to the shape of that area, then make my 4-sided template.

Cutting To Size

Like a lot of wood species today, Butcher block has two faces. Side A, the countertop side, is the better side and side B shows more knots. Make sure you look at the faces, line up your front edge to the template and trace your template on that best face.

I placed my template on the butcher block counter, clamped it in place, and traced my template lines to the block.

I used a track saw to cut the sides of the butcher block at 90-degrees and on the back edge I cut a 5 or10-degree back bevel.

Pro Tip:

A back bevel allows me to easily fine tune the back wall fit with a hand plane if needed. The back bevel creates a sharp tip that touched the wall a the top edge. When planning for a tighter fit I only have to place that sharp edge.

I then dryfit the butcher block to the granite counter opening and make adjustments util I am satisfied with the fit.

Pro Tip: Its important to note that when butcher block countertops are installed next to any hard surface, like granite, you should leave a little room for the expansion and contraction of the wood. I left 1/32” on both sides and hope that’s enough.
Easing the Edges

The butcher block countermeasures 1-1/2” and the granite is 1-1/4” so I needed to round over the butcher block edges as they would be higher and exposed.

I used a 3/8” radius bit and ball bearing and my router to round over the front and two sides of the butcher block counter

Sanding the Butcher Block
I sanded the top and 3-edges evenly with 100-150 grit sandpaper and a random orbital sander to remove any scratches and mill marks from the router bit, that may only be seen after applying a finish.
One trick to see mill marks is to wipe the wood with a rag and denatured alcohol. This will often show mill marks and will raise the grain on the wood.
Pro Tip:
Resist the temptation to sand to a higher grit as this will prevent the sealer from absorbing. Also, lightly sand the bottom face of the butcher block to etch the wood better absorption of the finish.
Pro Tip:

This is also the stage where you can address any defects or voids in the wood and fill it with either epoxy or CA glue.

Apply Food Grade Finish

Remember you have to seal all six sides and edges on a wood counter top to prevent cupping from seasonal humidity absorption.

Fastening

Drill ⅝ inch holes in each of the four corners braces of the cabinet. If possible, and in a perfect application, you will want to fasten your counter top every 24 to 30 inches back and front. Too many fasteners can keep the butcher block from moving properly.
After drilling I removed some drawers and a few drawer slides for better access
I then drilled ⅛ inch pilot holes through the larger hole I just drilled and into the butcher block. I set my drill bit to drill ¾ to 1” penetration into the 1-1/2” thick butcherblock. I know this is obvious but its worth mentioning, pay attention here, do not to drill all the way through the countertop!
When drilling the pilot hole, be sure to center it within the larger 5/8” holes.
To secure the countertop down to the cabinet use 1½ inches diameter fender washers and a pan head screw that will penetrate at least one-half of the thickness of your top.
The oversized ⅝ inch holes and the fender washer/Panhead screw assembly allow the screw to move as the butcher block countertop expands and contracts
Pro Tip:
Do not glue or silicone your top down to prevent expansion and contraction that can cause warping, or cracks.
Do not install your butcher block countertop directly on a solid surface such as plywood, as this prevents the underside to breath.

@Rust-oleum ‪@MakitaToolsUSA‬ #butcherblock #cuttingboard #butcherblockcounter