Two (old) guys embark on a 14-day backpack trip in a northern part of Gates of the Arctic National Park, Alaska (GAAR). They hiked from Agiak Lake to Anaktuvuk Pass, August 8-22, 2019. There are no trails or campsites in GAAR and hiking can be difficult. Tussocks, wetlands, willow/birch scrub, and river crossings are just some of the challenges to movement in the tree-less, sub-arctic tundra. It rained frequently and temperatures dropped below freezing a few nights. The scenery was spectacular, with vast panoramas of overwhelming immensity. August is the start of fall in the arctic and the foliage colors were truly amazing: the intense reds of black bearberry, dock and lingonberries, the yellows of the many species of willow, the oranges of the dwarf birches... Berries were ripe in splendid abundance. And before you ask - there were no bugs. None.