PROPER TREE PLANTING | PLANTING HOLE,STAKE SUPPORT,TRUNK PROTECTION, HOW TO PLANT WALNUT DETAIL DIY
CarlTheLandscapeGuy CarlTheLandscapeGuy
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 Published On Jul 22, 2020

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transcript: Hello and welcome, I’m Carl the landscape guy. Today I am planting a tree and will be showing you, step by step exactly how I do it. This video is applicable to almost all trees. Today I am planting a walnut tree of the variety "Mars", which was not available from the surrounding nurseries. Therefore I ordered it online. The tree was delivered in this package and I want to see how the tree endured. So far it looks healthy; no dry leaves or twisted branches. The pot is protected from drying out with this bag. Here we have the label. It's the variety Mars and the growth habit is Heister, which is German for Feathered Maiden. That means it has a main trunk with several branches. The height is between 200 and 250 cm, but we will measure that in a minute. I received this delivery at the beginning of autumn and the tree started its fall colouring the day after delivery. The tree was probably not grown outside at the nursery and is therefore not yet used to cooler temperatures. The branching of the small Feathered Maiden already starts at a low height, which for me personally, doesn’t fit well to the area where it will be planted. The tree is supposed to contribute to the generous park character of the property, therefore it shouldn’t be a bush, but a tree with a trunk and crown. Thus, I will now remove the branches in order to foster the height growth first. It is important to cut as close as possible to the trunk so that the tree can quickly regrow over the wounds. I try to carry out such measures when the tree is young, because the branches are still thin and the wounds are small. In smaller gardens, it may make sense to plant trees with lower branches, but in the end it’s a question of taste. I could’ve ordered a Standard tree right away, which has no lower branches, but these are comparably more expensive. Now I measure the height starting from the surface of the dirt and it is under 1.5 m. Therefore I have to say that the measured size does not correspond to the description, but that’s not really a problem for me right now. I have waited to plant this tree for about half a year. And now, the tree looks like this. With strong fresh, large, green leaves, it has already grown about 50 cm. Young walnut trees can be sensitive to frost; particularly late frost can be a big problem. Since it’s a potted tree, I was able to keep it in the greenhouse during winter. If you plant a tree without a pot, for example baled or bare-rooted, this should be done outside the growing season, which is after leaf shedding in autumn or before budding in spring. I have fertilized it with some complete fertilizer and horn shavings. Here we see the grafting place where the Mars variety was grafted onto the rootstock. For comparison, this one here is a rather fresh grafting place. The grafting place can be a high risk area for instability or fungal infection in young trees. The one from our tree has already grown together very well. Now in late spring the nights are frost-free and the tree can finally be planted. When choosing the location, the distance to other trees and shrubs should be considered. Further back there is already another young walnut tree that will spread its crown in all directions. For the Mars variety I’m assuming a crown diameter of at least 10 m. So the distance to older shrubs should not be less than 5 m. I have been thinking about the location for quite a while, because the tree will stand there for a very long time. Once the location is chosen, you can start digging the hole. To start, I make a ring around the pot double the diameter of the pot, so here that’s about the width of the spade. All tools and materials used can be found in the description section. Now the turf is being removed. I pack everything directly into the wheelbarrow, so that the lawn stays clean and I can take the grass straight to the compost area.
#treeplanting #garden #tree

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