Brandon came flying through after a downwinder and linked up with me on his first time surfing this spot. Showed him how to get in but he missed the keyhole so I showed him the other way in. This spot is super sketch to foil but was stoked to have a buddy join me. Been surfing this spot since keiki kine times, through all the different boards, and in the end, the foil is the one. Close in second would be the alaia. Put in about four years surfing alaia here. Nice to try and catch up on lost wave riding time for all that sacrifice with the wooden board. We're patient out there waiting for just the right ones and even then, the reef often times, keeps you from playing. Can't wait to get back out there. As always, another swell is on the way.


Filmed by Pasha. Riding Carbon Takuma Kujira 1210 with a Kane 13" stab. Board is from Robin Johnston; 4' 28L "Filipino Falcon".