Carmina Cap Toe Oxford in Black Boxcalf - Shoe Review | Kirby Allison
Kirby Allison Kirby Allison
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 Published On Mar 4, 2019

Based on the Spanish island of Majorca, Carmina is best-known for their cult-like following amongst shoe aficionados, for their ability to combine extraordinary softness and comfort with sturdy goodyear welting and elegant last design. Carmina offers an excellent value with most of their calfskin models beginning at just $450.00 with free shipping to the United States.

Carmina Shoemaker can trace its origins back to 1866. Today, the company is still very much a family affair with no fewer than five family members directly involved.

It is important to note that because Carmina is both the factory and the brand, and that the majority of their sales are direct, they are able to integrate many shoemaking elements into their shoes that one would not necessarily expect to see at $450.

The company also offers an extensive range of stock models and one of the easiest-to-use online made-to-order web interfaces for anyone looking to design a totally one-off shoe.

DESIGN
This Carmina black captoe oxford is built on the company’s extra-wide Forrest EEE last. One of the company’s oldest and most-traditional lasts, the Forrest last has a soft, rounded toe that gives the shoe a very conservative, traditional shape. This is a perfect business shoe.
The Forrest EEE last offers a roomier fit with more volume than the same model from other makers. The shoe features a nice, square waste with good definition where the upper is pulled over the last.


MATERIAL
Carmina’s Black Captoe Oxfords are made using black boxcalf, or chrome tanned leather, from the Germany tannery Weinheimer-Leder. Chrome-tanned is dyed and finished at the tannery which guarantees an even, stable finish that you do not have to worry about fading or coming off when you polish them. The leather is open pour, and features an even grain structure.

CONSTRUCTION
Carmina is so well-known amongst shoe enthusiasts because of how well their shoes are constructed. First, the shoe is completely Goodyear Welted, which is the derigor of high-quality factory-made shoes. Goodyear Welting is the process whereby a leather strip is sewn to then a linen ribbing that attaches to the insole. The outsole is then stitched to the welt.

What it allows is for a pair of shoes to be easily resoled without disturbing the integrity, fit, or shape of the shoe. The outsole can be easily pulled off and sewn back on by a skilled cobbler, like our Kirby Allison Certified Shoe Restoration Program, in as little as a few hours.

Carmina use a three-quarters, and not a 360-degree, welt, which ends right at the heel. This is the preferred method on higher-quality shoes because it allows the heel to sit more neatly on top of the heel.

AVAILABLE FINISHES
Carmina offers an extensive, easy-to-use made-to-order service on their website or through any of their boutiques. Any model can be made in any of their available lasts and in a wide variety of materials. Almost every aspect of the shoe can be customized to create a totally one-of-a-kind shoe.


SUMMARY AND ENDING
I really have to say that I love Carmina and can understand why they have such a strong following amongst budget-conscious shoe aficionados.

The only challenge to Carmina is that they do not have an extensive brick and mortar network of stores here in the United States. However, Carmina does have a boutique in New York City if you are ever there to try on shoes and an exceptional website where you can find their entire range of stock offerings, as well as an extensive MTO shoe configurator.


Shop Hanger Project: https://www.kirbyallison.com

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