Many people have a love/hate relationship with the ever-bustling (Istiklal Street or Istiklal Avenue ( İstiklal Caddesi in Turkish) that runs from Taksim Square nearly all the way to the landmark Galata Tower. Although it is the beating heart of the city, the three million people that pass it every day can make it rather challenging to traverse. Yet it serves as a microcosm of Istanbul itself and although chains and fast food joints are starting to edge out the more old-fashioned shops, there’s still traces of old Istanbul here.