From New Delhi, we travel by non-traditional sleeper bus to the sacred city of the Sikhs - Amritsar. Even though we're packed like sardines in the bus and Kuba doesn't have much legroom, the trip goes by pretty quickly, and we can head out early in the morning to explore the Golden Temple, the most important shrine and heart of the Sikh religion. The whole temple complex is really beautiful, and later we have an afternoon trip to the Attari-Wagah India-Pakistan border, 30 km away, where the border closing ceremony takes place every evening. An incredible show where the soldiers show off their skills, and the crowd roars.

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