To get this out of the way, I'm not pregnant! But my dear sister-in-law is with the first grandchild on that side of the family - so we're all making a big deal out of it.

For more behind-the-scenes content and to support the channel:   / hwdesigns  

Crib Plans:
https://honestworkdesigns.com/product...

Crib Rough Dimensions:
Long-side Panels - 4' 4.5" l x 2' 6.5" h x 1.5" w
Short Side Panels - 2' 6 5/16' l x 2'6.5" x 1.5" w
Leg Frame - 4' 4 9/16" l x 1.5" w x 1.5" h; Lap angle - 55*
Feet (face dimensions) - Bottom: 1 9/16"; Outside: 7 1/4"; inside 7 13/16"; Top: 3 1/8"
Mattress Frame - 4' 4 1/2" l x 2' 3 5/16" w x 1 1/2" h

To support "the show:"
- Like
- Subscribe
- "Ring the Bell"
- Follow me:   / honestworkdesigns  

DISCLAIMER: This video and subsequent plans dictate the process by which HonestWork|Designs created the crib portrayed in the video herein. Please consult local, regional, federal, or any other regulations not listed that may apply to the construction and use of beds designed for children. Any and all viewers who attempts to duplicate this project understand and absolve HonestWork|Designs of any responsibility or liability.

Music Credits:
Caught Up in A Dream
Loving Caliber
https://player.epidemicsound.com/

You Are Welcome Here
Katherine Appleton
https://player.epidemicsound.com/

Think About You
Sture Zutterberg
https://player.epidemicsound.com/

Let Me Love You
Loving Caliber
https://player.epidemicsound.com/

Smile
Gracie Gray
https://player.epidemicsound.com/

Don't Waste My Time
Victor Lundberg
https://player.epidemicsound.com/


* TRANSCRIPT OF VOICEOVER*

How to make or how I made a convertible crib

Let’s get into it.

Let’s get started with some air dried red oak.

I roughly measured and marked each piece I’d used for the frames of the crib panels as well as the feet framework. Being sure to overestimate about a ¼” from final dimensions.

Then using the center most rough marks on each board as my guides, I ripped the pieces small enough to fit on the jointer.

After that, I got to squaring the lumber.

Once square, I let these freshly cut pieces rest for a few days before I took them down to the final dimension. Allowing them to acclimate to avoid warping

While those rested, I set about the same process for the lumber I’d use for all of the beveled spindles.

After they’d had their nap, it was time to rip the pieces I’d use for the crib panel frames down to size. I’ll level some basic dimensions below, or for greater detail, I’ll link to plans in the description.

I used the crosscut sled to then cut the frame boards to length.

For the spindles, I worked in reverse order, cutting the squared pieces to length before ripping each spindle to it’s final 1.25” x 1.25” width.

To create the bevel, I set the table saw to 45 degrees, and ran each freshly cut spindle corner through the blade.

With those roughed out, I got to work hardening any cracks, checks, or knots with CA glue and accelerator.

Then, sanded the surfaces flush taking them to a finish level.

With the spindles out of the way, I got to piecing together the frame of the crib panels.

I started with the 8 vertical frame pieces, measuring and marking 2” from either end to start laying out the recesses for the hardware.

Grouping these vertical pieces in pairs of two (ie the pairs that would anchor to each other to form a corner) I marked the center points along the lines on one of the pieces of the pair - we’ll call this kind of piece, Type A.

Then rotated the other piece 90 degrees, used the 2” line as my guide, marked the new face, and marked another point ¾” from what would later become the outside of the frame. We’ll call this kind of piece, Type B.

With all the vertical pieces marked, I took all the type A’s over to the drill press

Using a ¾” frostner bit, I drill a recess about a ¼” into the wood. The same depth as the head of the bolt that would soon live there.

Then, in the center of that recess, drilled a pilot hole as a guide for the ⅜ Frostner bit that would clear the rest of the way for the bolt.

I had to do this before gluing the frames together, otherwise the spindles would have inhibited my drilling of the recess for the bolt head.

With all of the type A’s drilled, I got to work on making the long sided panels by laying out the form of the frame before marking every butt joint at ¾”. These markes would be the guide for the domino jointer

Then, measured equidistant spacing on the long horizontal pieces and marked the face perpendicular to where the spindles would join the frame.

I did both the top and bottom horizontal pieces together in pairs to help ensure proper alignment

Then, with the dominio jointer, I got to work cutting 10mm slots on either end of the long horizontal pieces, and through the end grain of the type a vertical pieces.


Con't