Chapters in this video:
00:00 Intro
00:32 Problems With Pump-and-Hold Bleeding
01:56 ---
02:10 Bleeding ABS Caution
03:29 Prep-work
04:21 Reverse Bleeding
05:40 Bold Test Start!
07:27 Keep Brake Fluid Off Paint
07:55 Upcoming Ducati Videos

Reverse bleeding is very simple, and dare I say the simplest bleeding method for brake and clutch systems. If you're bleeding a system the traditional way and you have your friend pumping the brake or clutch pedal while so you can release the pressure, then you're basically aerating the brake fluid and creating a million tiny bubbles. This happens because you initially pour fluid in the reservoir and the fluid is on top of the air. When you pump the pedal, you mix the air and fluid together. This is why your first few sprays of fluid out of the caliper bleed screw are airy. The more you pump, the more you spread out the air bubbles while also releasing overly aerated fluid. If you bleed the system enough times you'll finally get most of the air bubbles out, but you can't release them all. With the reverse bleeding technique, you start by adding the fluid to the bottom (air is on top) and as you push the fluid up from the bottom you force air out of the top without the fluid ever becoming aerated. Then when you close the lower bleed screw, then close the upper bleed screw, you end up with a system that is 99.999% fluid. The only air that would remain would be air that's trapped in the pocket of a weird bend (if there are any). I've loved this method for a long time. The tools are extremely cheap ($10-$15) and can be sourced from most hardware or department stores. Vacuum bleeders can range from $20-$60+. The only downside to this method is that the rubber on the syringe needs cleaning with water in order to get all of the brake fluid off, otherwise the rubber turns to goo.

Buy the same syringe that I use in the video here:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
OR
https://www.walmart.com/ip/100ML-Plas...