Published On Mar 31, 2023
We're finally taking my bespoke shoes off of their lasts and trying them on: https://gentl.mn/trying-on-bespoke-shoes
#bespoke #shoes #notsponsored
SHOP THE VIDEO:
→ Shadow Stripe Socks Black & White: https://gentl.mn/stripe-socks-black-w...
→ Mid-Brown Socks with Green & Cream Clocks: https://gentl.mn/socks-brown-green-cr...
GUIDES YOU DON'T WANT TO MISS:
→ Custom Suit Review 10 Years Later: https://gentl.mn/custom-suit-review-a...
→ Designing & Cutting Bespoke Shoe Uppers: https://gentl.mn/bespoke-shoe-uppers-...
SEE THE FULL BESPOKE SHOE SERIES PLAYLIST HERE:
→ • Bespoke Shoes, Start to Finish | Gent...
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Scriptwriters: E.J. Daniels and Sven Raphael Schneider
→ Camera & Editing: Chris Dummer
→ Visual Supervision: Preston Schlueter
→ Disney
Bespoke Shoes Created by Amara Hark Weber
Visit Amara at http://harkweberstudio.com
IMAGE CREDIT:
→ Shoegazing.com
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00:00 Trying on Bespoke Shoes: Introduction
The series chronicles; the creation of a bespoke pair of shoes from start to finish with shoemaker Amara. Our long journey is finally over but there are still a few finishing touches that will crown our final success. Let’s see what they are.
00:35 Removing the Lasts
Amara used a “split last,” which means the last is composed of multiple pieces that are screwed together. Because you can break down the last and smaller pieces, it is easier to remove them from the shoe. Also, if you just have a one-piece last, you may stretch the leather in unwanted ways when removing it from the shoe.
02:27 Sanding the Pegs
Amara uses sandpaper to smooth out the surface and get rid of any pegs that protrude into the footbed. She said, “This is why it’s good to have small hands.”
03:19 Using the Decorative Wheel
Amara uses a decorative wheel. It’s a scroll wheel that goes over the perimeter of the sole. Really, it’s really decorative. It’s usually heated to brand a repeating pattern that is consistent onto the sole. Some shoemakers even have a signature pattern that identifies their work.
04:26 Trying on the Shoes
I immediately noticed the shoe felt very supportive, especially in that arch area. That indicates a good, tight fit.
At first, the heel felt good while I was sitting. When I was standing on one foot, I felt it could be a little tighter. I definitely also felt some excess space in the vamp area.
07:08 Improving the Fit
To improve the fit even further, the shoemaker can play with a few things. One of them is the sock liner. Sometimes, the sock liner can be backed with a piece of cork or some foam, depending on the wearer’s choices or ideas of comfort when they walk.
10:17 Making the Sock Liner
First of all, the last is being put back together. Then, Amara uses masking tape to get the pattern of the last. Then, the outline is sketched, and the tape is removed and placed onto paper. The pattern is then covered with a knife and subsequently used to make leather pieces for a sock liner.
12:14 Improving the Padding
We suggested maybe some cork from the ball in the left shoe to see how that would work and feel. Of course, it’s a bespoke shoe, so you can add padding wherever you need it or want it or think it might help.
14:00 Finalizing the Padding & Sock Liner
The leather padding was, of course, skived down, so it’s not bulky. Then, it was rubber cemented into place. Amara applied the glue after the padding had been put into the shoe. Now, if she had applied the glue already outside of the shoe, there’s a much higher risk of the glue getting in parts onto the inside lining where you don’t want it.
14:58 Diamond Pattern Detailing
Amara marks everything up. The first diamond is a bit too long and pointed. But the second one is perfect. Amara also took the time to position the diamond exactly in the right shape, so it doesn’t look off. Then, the pattern is traced onto the sock liner and cut out, which then burns away to get that smooth, generally neat edge.
16:48 Waxing the Openings
Amara is waxing the openings. It’s a final layer of protection, and it helps make the leather softer. Wax is applied to the edges and the openings of the lacings.