How to assemble a drilling machine with your own hands. Instructions, diagrams, drawings.
The only dimensions that I will not give here are persistent partitions and clamps inside the case, they will all be different, the rest of the nodes can be safely assembled using this instruction.
Body pipe - 80x80, vertical column pipe - 40x40x2 mm. The carriage rolls on this rack. The entire carriage mechanism is assembled inside the sides from a sheet of 3 mm. A 20 mm shaft with a gear and axle bearings of the rack are installed inside.
A group of bearings on the axles rolls the carriage along the rack. At the same time, backlashes are unacceptable, in order to avoid them, the rocker arm reliably presses the rear pair of axles to the column. It should be noted that the ENTIRE structure turned out to be very rigid, practically without backlash and gaps.
The steering wheel levers are old stabilizer struts, balls from the "All for forging" store.
How I assembled the carriage:    • Самодельный Сверлильный. Каретка и ме...  
During tests, the machine showed just excellent drilling accuracy for a machine assembled in a garage.
This was achieved thanks to the precisely aligned vertical column and the possibility of precise body adjustments in two planes. The tilt of the body is adjusted by changing the position in the oval holes of the sidewalls of the lever. And the rotation adjustment is by rotating the 22x66 body washer welded to this lever. Both adjustments are made with screws, which ensures high accuracy. At the end of the adjustment, all that remains is to tighten the fixing bolts and nuts.
You can take screenshots of the screen and print - this, of course, is more convenient. I will note that I was able to make this homemade product without involving a turner. I don’t even know: VERY many viewers write words of gratitude for the stories about machines made without a turner. Shouldn't it be a tradition? I dreamed so much about my own lathe! Or maybe - well, him? What do you think? Your opinion is interesting and important to me.
To drill a thick workpiece with a large drill, I cut a piece of 25 mm high from 20 mm round timber. Of course, after punching, I will not drill it immediately with a 15 mm drill. I did NOT have to hang on the handwheel, the drill feeds smoothly, easily and effortlessly.
In order to avoid long chips, he reduced the feed from time to time. I drilled with lubricant, but, if you paid attention, this is not enough for good cooling, the cutting temperature is high and tarnishing colors are formed on the chips. But imagine if I were drilling it with a drill - one of two things - either the drill or the drill motor would burn. Well, I have to invent something more serious than a manual oiler to completely eliminate overheating. But while I state the fact - the cutting edges, having passed 25 mm of steel, did not get annealed or blunt. The workpiece is drilled quickly and accurately.
So the conclusions:
1. The machine is great for my tasks.
2. Although it will not be able to compete with serious factory machines, I would put it on a par with inexpensive (up to $ 400) store-bought drilling machines, although its cost is several times lower.
3. By the comfort of work, by functionality, by the rigidity of the structure, by the convenience of feeding, by the DRILLING ACCURACY, this machine leaves all kinds of drill stands far behind without options.
Friends, I do not urge anyone to repeat this scheme with a belt. The chain and sprocket are probably tighter. But I myself, I will repeat myself, do not doubt this decision now. And one VERY important rule is the motto and symbol of metalworking: perform any cutting ONLY WITH THE CORRECTLY SHARPENED TOOL !!!