We finally made it to the Bugaboos after just missing the 2021 season during van-life. We chose Pigeon Spire as our introduction to the area - a Bugaboo classic. We were treated with views of towering spires, vast glaciers, fun exposure and sticky granite. After hearing there were 17 parties lined up the day before, we were shocked to be one of two total parties, leading the way for the sunny day.

NE Ridge of Bugaboo Spire: After an alpine start, we hiked our way across a frozen lake and up the snow to a very loose “4th” class approach. We enjoyed 11 pitches of incredible climbing with splitter cracks galore and unbelievable views. We celebrated on the summit with a quick high five knowing we had to start traversing the ridge for a long descent. The ridge traverse involved constantly switching between down climbing, simul climbing and rappelling to then make the longer scramble down the Kain route. By the time we were done, we were descending the Bugaboo Snowpatch Col in the dark and ready for some food and sleep.

Jordan and I also topped out on The Central Crescent Spire via Lions Way and made a quick scramble up East Post Spire.