I returned to the Russian speaking world, this time in Europe, to visit what is often said to be the least visited country on the entire continent - the Republic of Moldova. Just like its neighbour Ukraine, Moldova is a multiethnic and multilingual country that is experiencing a battle for its soul at the moment. I found Chisinau to be a peaceful, walkable city with a rich history - from the largely Jewish city it was until the fascist occupation during World War 2, to its Soviet heritage and Leninist landmarks, to a surprisingly vibrant coffee culture. Join me in this underrated European capital.