Master of Wine: Brunello di Montalcino
Bob Paulinski, Master of Wine Bob Paulinski, Master of Wine
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 Published On Sep 7, 2024

In this video, Bob Paulinski Master of Wine discusses Brunello di Montalcino, including the various wine styles and aging potential, along with a tasting of a 1993 La Fuga Brunello di Montalcino Riserva. Located in Tuscany, around the hill town of Montalcino. Take the place of origin along with the grape variety, you have Brunello di Montalcino, a DOCG, the highest classification for Italian wine. This is an ancient wine region, but over the last forty years or so its reputation has soared. In general, the wines see good availability on the international market.

Think of the regions wines as a hierarchy of good, better, best. The good or entry tier is RdM, which is classified as DOC. The wine must spend at least six months in barrel and one year aging prior to release. This is a lighter, less concentrated, fresher, brighter style of wine meant to be consumed within about five years to seven from the vintage. These can often be found in that $20 to $30 range.

In comparison, Brunello di Montalcino is routinely from preferred vineyard sites with lower yields, a longer maceration times, expect, deeper, better structured wines. Oak plays a role but it’ll vary based on the source of the wood, along with the age and barrel size. A degree of new oak is often used. The wines must be at least five years old with a minimum of two years in barrel prior to release. The wines show depth and structure to age for twenty years or more. Better producers will start at around $40, and quickly climb. There have been many strong recent vintages. Check a vintage chart and you’ll see for yourself. But one call out, warmer years can result in elevated % levels. My recommendation is if the alcohol bumps up to around 15%, it’s often too high for the structure of the wines and they can come across as being out of balance.

At the top tier is Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, this represents the smallest production level within the region, made from the top vineyards and only in the best years. New oak often plays a bigger role. The wine must be at least six years old, with at least two in barrel. Made for cellaring, thirty years is often well within reach. The starting price is around $50 per bottle and that will climb quickly.

The recent vintages to search out: 2015, 2016, 2019 and the yet to be released 2020. Prices will vary. Costco Kirkland Signature is available from time to time, It's worth searching out as an introduction to Brunello di Montalcino. Past offerings have run about $20. Websites Last Bottle will run deals from time to time.

PRODUCERS TO SEARCH OUT INCLUDE:
2021 Altesino Rosso di Montalcino $26
2020 Il Poggione Rosso di Montalcino $28
2019 Lisini Rosso di Montalcino $33
2017 Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino $42
2019 Poggiotondo Brunello di Montalcino $45
2019 Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino $49
2018 Fanti Brunello di Montalcino $49
2018 Casalino Brunello di Montalcino $50
2019 San Fillipo Brunello di Montalcino $55
2018 Tenuta Col d'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino $55
2018 Casanova di Neri Brunello di Montalcino $70
2016 Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino $75
2016 Talenti Brunello di Montalcino $75
2016 Sassetti Livio Pertimali Brunello di Montalcino $80
2019 Altesino Montosoli Brunello di Montalcino $89
2016 Renieri Brunello di Montalcino Riserva $100

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