Excellent demo of making a cement splice using small 8mm film and a Minette splicer. This example is helpful to anyone wanting to understand a cement splice on any gauge film. The Minette splicer is not a "hot" splicer plugged into an electrical source, so the splice must "cure" for about 30 minutes before becoming strong. Shows how splice is inspected and tested by twisting after dry.

###Tips### Professional cement splicing machines in 35mm and 16mm are often called hot splicers because they are electrically heated. To speed up the drying process when you are using unheated small gauge cement splicers as in this example, Brodsky suggests heating the splice using a low wattage light bulb on a rheostat. If you are making lots of cement splices, he advises placing the splicer on a heating pad to heat the metal and make the splicer into a "hot" splicer. Brodsky works on a towel - the soft material prevents scratches and catches particles of film and dirt. Careful handling of small gauge films is even more important than on large gauges like 35mm, because the dirt particles and scratches are proportionally larger compared to image size.